THE FABULOUS FANNIE FARMER

A Bostonian revolutionizes the recipe world.

Fannie Farmer (1857-1915) grew up helping in the kitchen, as most girls did at the time. She learned to love cooking, and when polio left her with a limp that prevented her from attending college, she devoted herself fully to cooking. She developed methods based on precision measurements—a groundbreaking concept at a time when most recipes called for “a suspicion of nutmeg” or “as many yolks as may be necessary.” She became a teacher and later principal at the Boston Cooking School and wrote a cookbook (still in print years later). Deborah Hopkinson’s Fannie in the Kitchen (2004), illustrated by Nancy Carpenter, focused on Farmer’s life before cooking school; Smith, by contrast, spends more time on her subsequent professional life. The prose is peppered with rich cooking imagery and includes two workable, though not simple, recipes—for popovers and angel food cake. Reagan’s engaging watercolor and digital illustrations convey a sense of Fannie’s world; quotations from her writings are interspersed. Most people shown present white, like Fannie, but there are Black faces among her cooking school classmates, students, audiences, and customers for her books. In the backmatter, Smith carefully notes that some scenes about Fannie’s early life are based on speculation, due to lack of available information.

Delectable!