Gael Greene, New York Magazine's haute critic of our snob restaurants where names drop along with souffles and even all the way down to drop-in eateries like Zum Zum, is probably the funniest and most fetching thing to have emerged out of a ""Velveeta cocoon"" in the midwest. She made her start at Soule's Pavillon and La Cote Basque and ever since has been snob slumming at the Colony, or the Caravelle which is reduced considerably in her view from the banquette, and Lutece and declining ""21."" She'll also do special pieces on special items, mineral waters or ice cream, and she takes a fairly wide tour of the city and Brooklyn and the outskirts to include any place you might eat out at. She's usually with her husband, the Kultur Maven or grape nut to whom this is dedicated. You wonder where her editorial Maven might be when you read a whole piece on the sommolier, a fellow we always used to know as the sommelier, or why there was no closer surveillance from magazine to book when you go to brunch at the Fifth Avenue Hotel where the restaurant has been closed down for almost a year. But then -- this has a charming chic for those primarily with pampered tastebuds and pocketbooks.