Meatless in the sense that the high-priced, high-cholesterol red meats are omitted, this supplements the usual sampling of simplified vegetarian recipes with sections of fish and chicken dishes--many of the latter being variations on standards familiar from the original New York Times Cookbook. Like most such cookbooks nowadays, this is upscaled with a wider international range (though again, some of these show up in the New York Times International Cookbook)--but not to the point of intimidating cooks who feel more comfortable with frozen spinach or canned tortillas and can't make an Indian dish without curry powder. (Hewitt usually throws it in along with other powdered spices.) Perhaps hardest to swallow, though, is her assurance that an ""acceptable"" pesto sauce can be made by substituting flat-parsley-with-dried-basil for the traditional fresh basil that defines the dish. Neither truly vegetarian, then, nor truly fair to the exotic cuisines represented, this will probably serve that vast middle market of Americans whose doctors and wallets are urging them to find alternatives to the fatted calf.