SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD

by Richard Olney ‧ RELEASE DATE: Oct. 1, 1974

Olney wrote the highly admired French Menu Cookbook (1970); he belongs in the dedicated—stress, dedicated—company of gastronomes, and this book should appeal equally to the cultivated palate and eye. One reads with pleasure about food and about dishes the ordinary citoyen will probably never make, since when Olney talks about Simple French Food, he really is talking about "pure in effect" rather than easy in accomplishment. Still, there are a few things one might effortlessly achieve—grilled fish, or roast calf's liver, or figs with thyme. You'll also learn how to hard boil an egg—without vinegar. Olney talks charmingly about concepts, rules, improvisation, herbs (you should be growing your own), cheeses, et alia. He dismisses the paté in favor of the terrine or mousse; does a great deal with vegetables (particularly endive, artichokes, eggplant), pasta (from scratch), meats and fish—and a few desserts. There is a great deal of explicit methodology throughout (Olney has taught) but there is also an unquestionable volupté—everything simmers or rather "murmurs" with anticipated enjoyment.

Pub Date: Oct. 1, 1974

ISBN: 0020100604

Page Count: -

Publisher: Atheneum

Review Posted Online: N/A

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Oct. 1, 1974

Categories: NONFICTION