RUIN THEIR CROPS ON THE GROUND

A critical assessment of food as a political weapon and source of ill health.

A legal scholar of food, health, and race, Freeman, the author of Skimmed, chronicles the mobilization of food in the U.S. to control non-white populations, assimilate immigrants, boost corporate profitability by shaping cultural norms, and foster racial health disparities. She describes how the federal government used access to farmland and buffalo to displace Indigenous populations and diminish their numbers and how plantation owners deployed food to control the enslaved population. Food has also figured in immigrant assimilation and the privileging of whiteness. Mexicans, for example, were subject to homemaking assistance that privileged a European diet. Food-based assimilation occurs, as well, in school lunch programs that emphasize American fare such as hamburgers. Freeman focuses one chapter on milk, an unhealthy food for many non-Europeans. Race has also figured in food advertising—e.g., playing on stereotypes to sell pancakes and rice. Freeman blames the entanglement of the U.S. Department of Agriculture with giant agriculture and food production corporations for the unhealthy foods so dominant in schools and food assistance programs. Governmental subsidies to these corporations “make the unhealthiest food the cheapest,” with processed foods a major contributor to obesity, diabetes, and heart disease. As reforms, Freeman calls for eliminating the work requirement in the government’s Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program, the major source of food assistance for low-income households, and for casting these problems as “vestiges of slavery” to be recognized under the 13th and 14th Amendments. This legal angle stems from her belief that “USDA food programs are unconstitutional because they perpetuate racial health disparities.” The author is clearly well intentioned, but she dilutes her arguments with disparate examples and the broad scope of her assertions.

A useful reminder that food can oppress, coerce, and undermine the bodies and aspirations of vulnerable minorities.