A TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE MIDDLE AGES

A globe-trotting history of medieval travelers.

In this appealing survey, Bale, a London-based professor of medieval studies and author of Margery Kempe: A Mixed Life, has turned up a surprising number of travel guides and personal accounts beginning around 1000. At the time, travelogues mixed truth with fabrications, eyewitness testimony with antique fantasies; some were written in libraries by monks who had nothing better to do. Most of them acknowledged the grim reality of the times: “Written travel guides bear more than a passing resemblance to survival manuals; places were described in terms of how best to be endured rather than enjoyed.” During the Middle Ages, traders and adventurers traveled for pleasure, but the dominant form of medieval travel was the pilgrimage. Executed properly, it was no holiday, but rather an act of self-punishment and self-reform. Inevitably, with masses of the devout on the road, there appeared the trappings of mass tourism, with paid agents and suppliers, inns, ferries, and money-changing stations. Absent modern standards of sanitation, law enforcement, and medicine, these circumstances produced experiences that no modern reader would tolerate, but they make for an entertaining text. After setting the scene, Bale delivers a steady stream of extracts from his sources. The majority describe Europeans crossing the continent to the Holy Land, which despite intense suffering from their travels they greeted ecstatically; their enthusiasm did not diminish even after observing unimpressive holy sites, which seemed mostly to consist of dilapidated churches and saints’ body parts. The author provides accounts by Europeans who traveled still farther and by pilgrims from the Muslim world and Far East, who recorded their impressions and experience of the West with both wonder and misunderstanding. While readers may want to skim innumerable descriptions of churchly architecture, mostly they will marvel at what traveling humans endured hundreds of years ago.

A wise, well-informed historical study.