EAT A PEACH

The debut memoir from the star chef and restaurateur.

It would be unfair to label Chang’s book as the Korean American Kitchen Confidential, but the similarities in tone and attitude certainly invoke the late Anthony Bourdain. The author, probably best known for his now-global Momofuku culinary brand, is no slouch as a writer, with a style that features a refreshingly defiant attitude and some of the best inessential footnotes since A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius. Chang whisks readers through the steps it takes to be a successful restaurateur, and he makes it clear that there are few ventures harder to pull off. During his first years in the restaurant trade, the author was the beneficiary of family money, a fact that he is not ashamed to admit: Chang’s father gave him a generous loan for the financial foundations of his series of restaurants. “There were no apologies or heartfelt conversations, only the money and the particulars of starting a business,” he writes. “[My father] was vulnerable. I was vulnerable. We were leaning on one another, just as a family might.” Following his early success, Chang began making TV appearances (he now has his own show on Netflix). Of course, there’s always a price for success. After moving to Australia and opening a restaurant, he began to feel the stress of managing his many global culinary assets, and a hepatitis scare in one of his restaurants put his business in danger. There’s also the inevitable chapter on his addictions: The author was a heavy drinker for years, and he also struggled with anger issues. Chang’s memoir eventually becomes a smorgasbord of random recall, covering everything from contemplating the ideal volume of the music in his restaurants to his extended bouts with depression and anxieties about his open-ended future in food.

An entertaining, admirably candid self-assessment of life in the foodie fast lane.