SLIPPERY BEAST

An electric foray into the eel.

Eels have puzzled scientists for ages and continue to today. To date, nobody has witnessed the creature reproduce; nor has anyone seen an eel egg or pregnant eel in the wild. “How is it that we can track Higgs bosons and black holes in outer space, program machines to think, cure cancer of various sorts, yet—despite our best efforts—not find a way to breed the American eel?” So asks Ruppel Shell, author of Cheap and The Job, executing an impressive deep dive into “the eel question.” Stretching her research from centuries-old discoveries in natural science to contemporary advancements in aquaculture and trade, the author jumps among science, history, and economics in a way that dazzles with facts that occasionally overwhelm. Some readers will be frustrated to learn about the global market for eels before the fundamental details about their biology. Scientists now understand that Atlantic eels follow magnetic isolines to trek to the Sargasso Sea, where they spawn and die. Their eggs float back to the coast and grow into elvers (juvenile eels), which conclude their journey in freshwater lakes and streams. Because eels cannot reproduce in captivity, elvers have become a hot commodity for the booming eel industry in Asia (where eel is widely consumed). They are a necessary starting point for farms, which look to fishermen in places like rural Maine to catch and ship the goods. Elvers now sell for an extraordinary $2,000 per pound, and Ruppel Shell deftly explores the recent uptick in criminal activity and regulatory efforts that surround this slippery payload. By combining legal intrigue, a vision of untapped riches, and still-unsolved scientific mysteries, the author fashions a curious history that brims with wonderment.

An unsuspectingly thrilling account of one of marine life’s most enigmatic creatures.