CHANGE THE RECIPE

The noted Spanish American chef and philanthropist offers his life story, complete with recipes.

Andrés, known both for his restaurants and his World Central Kitchen nonprofit, which brings food to war zones and disaster areas, might be forgiven for wanting to luxuriate among expensive toys: He grew up in a household where “money was not plentiful,” and at the end of the month his family ate croquetas “made from the last leftovers in the corner of the fridge.” Andrés, of abundantly large spirit, expresses both gratitude for the food and the lovely memory of how his parents taught him valuable lessons using food as a vehicle. Andrés imparts some of them, such as his father’s advice to “master the fire,” which means not just mastering yourself but also learning how to control the heat necessary to make a good dish. He has plenty of lessons to deliver, recalling how he left a soft position as an admiral’s cook during his stint in the Spanish navy so that he could cook for a ship’s crew. “You should never let slip the opportunity to tell the world what you want,” he observes. “Nothing will happen if you’re the only one who knows.” Andrés is superbly generous—his book concludes with a moving eulogy to seven of his nonprofit workers who were killed in Gaza—and a true patriot: “We’re all in this country together. We’re all on this planet together. Your success is my success. We the People.” About the only time he grows cross is when the subject of Donald Trump arises, on which he notes with quiet defiance, “You can build as many walls as you like. But there isn’t a wall high enough to stop the mother of a hungry child.” A bonus lesson: You don’t need so much water to cook pasta.

A lively memoir—and an inspiration to do good in the kitchen and in the world.