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HMONG REVERSE APPLIQUÉ

CULTURAL MEANING AND SIGNIFICANCE

An enlightening look at vibrant designs and their place in Hmong traditions.

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A detailed guide explores a form of textile art.

This lushly illustrated book places the Hmong reverse appliqué technique in its cultural context, examines the traditional motifs used in the designs, and presents dozens of examples of needlework produced by artisans in Laos, Thai refugee camps, and the United States. Gerdner offers a high-level overview of Hmong culture and the impact of the Vietnam War, when Laos’ involvement in the conflict led to thousands of people leaving the country. After a brief glimpse of how reverse appliqué is constructed, the book explores the common motifs used by creators, explaining the meanings and purposes and showing how different artists have interpreted imagery, including the double snail, the elephant foot, and the cucumber seed. The volume’s many photographs from various sources clearly capture the vivid colors and geometric features of the designs, making it easy to appreciate the works on an aesthetic level as well as their role as a cultural production. While casual readers may wish for a more detailed explanation of how reverse appliqué is created (a visual tutorial covers many of the steps but not all), those familiar with sewing techniques will have no trouble following the demonstration. That quibble aside, the book’s high-quality pictures make it easy to appreciate the skill and labor involved in fashioning the designs, with many close-ups allowing readers to see individual stitches. In addition to images of the textiles discussed in these pages, Gerdner includes contemporary and historical photos of people wearing reverse appliqué garments, giving a distinct portrait of their use in daily life. The book engages with Hmong cultural traditions on their own level while making them comprehensible to readers who lack the expertise needed to fully interpret them. The writing is lucid and generally avoids technical jargon, making the volume appropriate for a general audience without specialist knowledge of textiles or Hmong culture and allowing it to be both informative and captivating.

An enlightening look at vibrant designs and their place in Hmong traditions.

Pub Date: March 17, 2022

ISBN: 978-0-9986864-6-2

Page Count: 176

Publisher: Pizzicato Press

Review Posted Online: July 21, 2022

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Sept. 1, 2022

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KILLERS OF THE FLOWER MOON

THE OSAGE MURDERS AND THE BIRTH OF THE FBI

Dogged original research and superb narrative skills come together in this gripping account of pitiless evil.

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Greed, depravity, and serial murder in 1920s Oklahoma.

During that time, enrolled members of the Osage Indian nation were among the wealthiest people per capita in the world. The rich oil fields beneath their reservation brought millions of dollars into the tribe annually, distributed to tribal members holding "headrights" that could not be bought or sold but only inherited. This vast wealth attracted the attention of unscrupulous whites who found ways to divert it to themselves by marrying Osage women or by having Osage declared legally incompetent so the whites could fleece them through the administration of their estates. For some, however, these deceptive tactics were not enough, and a plague of violent death—by shooting, poison, orchestrated automobile accident, and bombing—began to decimate the Osage in what they came to call the "Reign of Terror." Corrupt and incompetent law enforcement and judicial systems ensured that the perpetrators were never found or punished until the young J. Edgar Hoover saw cracking these cases as a means of burnishing the reputation of the newly professionalized FBI. Bestselling New Yorkerstaff writer Grann (The Devil and Sherlock Holmes: Tales of Murder, Madness, and Obsession, 2010, etc.) follows Special Agent Tom White and his assistants as they track the killers of one extended Osage family through a closed local culture of greed, bigotry, and lies in pursuit of protection for the survivors and justice for the dead. But he doesn't stop there; relying almost entirely on primary and unpublished sources, the author goes on to expose a web of conspiracy and corruption that extended far wider than even the FBI ever suspected. This page-turner surges forward with the pacing of a true-crime thriller, elevated by Grann's crisp and evocative prose and enhanced by dozens of period photographs.

Dogged original research and superb narrative skills come together in this gripping account of pitiless evil.

Pub Date: April 18, 2017

ISBN: 978-0-385-53424-6

Page Count: 352

Publisher: Doubleday

Review Posted Online: Feb. 1, 2017

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Feb. 15, 2017

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A WEALTH OF PIGEONS

A CARTOON COLLECTION

A virtuoso performance and an ode to an undervalued medium created by two talented artists.

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The veteran actor, comedian, and banjo player teams up with the acclaimed illustrator to create a unique book of cartoons that communicates their personalities.

Martin, also a prolific author, has always been intrigued by the cartoons strewn throughout the pages of the New Yorker. So when he was presented with the opportunity to work with Bliss, who has been a staff cartoonist at the magazine since 1997, he seized the moment. “The idea of a one-panel image with or without a caption mystified me,” he writes. “I felt like, yeah, sometimes I’m funny, but there are these other weird freaks who are actually funny.” Once the duo agreed to work together, they established their creative process, which consisted of working forward and backward: “Forwards was me conceiving of several cartoon images and captions, and Harry would select his favorites; backwards was Harry sending me sketched or fully drawn cartoons for dialogue or banners.” Sometimes, he writes, “the perfect joke occurs two seconds before deadline.” There are several cartoons depicting this method, including a humorous multipanel piece highlighting their first meeting called “They Meet,” in which Martin thinks to himself, “He’ll never be able to translate my delicate and finely honed droll notions.” In the next panel, Bliss thinks, “I’m sure he won’t understand that the comic art form is way more subtle than his blunt-force humor.” The team collaborated for a year and created 150 cartoons featuring an array of topics, “from dogs and cats to outer space and art museums.” A witty creation of a bovine family sitting down to a gourmet meal and one of Dumbo getting his comeuppance highlight the duo’s comedic talent. What also makes this project successful is the team’s keen understanding of human behavior as viewed through their unconventional comedic minds.

A virtuoso performance and an ode to an undervalued medium created by two talented artists.

Pub Date: Nov. 17, 2020

ISBN: 978-1-250-26289-9

Page Count: 272

Publisher: Celadon Books

Review Posted Online: Aug. 30, 2020

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Sept. 15, 2020

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