THE MUSEUM OF SCENT

The world of perfumes is a universe all its own, and Aftel’s book is a colorful, authoritative guide.

There are some authors who know everything there is to know about their field. Aftel, author of Fragrant and Essence and Alchemy, is one of them, and the result is this sumptuous book. She is a creator of bespoke perfumes and has an impressive client list. In 2017, she opened a small museum at her home in Berkeley, California, called the Aftel Archive of Curious Scents, to educate people about the history and culture of perfumes. Her latest book is another step in this project, cataloguing her collection of essences and oils, as well as prints, photographs, and maps. She disdains the trend toward artificial scents, arguing that only natural perfumes can provide true aromatic beauty. Her exploration of the origin of each ingredient features an exquisite drawing, with categories of flowers, woods, leaves and grasses, and resins, and an account of the painstaking distilling processes. Aftel explains how a perfume is created through the careful balancing of three “chords” that might require dozens of components, measured at the molecular level. Her museum also houses collections of antique perfume bottles and evocative recipe books. “It’s not that the world of scent contains these objects so much as they contain the world,” writes the author. “This world kindles a sense of shared humanity that transcends the boundaries of culture and travels down through the eras. It shakes us out of our usual way of responding to the modern world, as a lifeless place; the universe of aromatics has the power to vivify our very being.” This is an inspiring view, founded in nature and enhanced by artistry. This book could be read straight through or dipped into randomly. Many readers will want to sample the fragrances that Aftel describes.

A beautiful book about beautiful things, with a fascinating narrative told by an author who loves her subject.