ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, JUNK

An urgent call to action from a noted food journalist.

Offering a sweeping history of the ways humans have procured, processed, and consumed food, Bittman focuses on the political, social, cultural, and environmental consequences of the transformation from hunting and gathering to agriculture and of the increased industrialization of the food system. Like authors such as Jared Diamond and Yuval Noah Harari, Bittman asserts that agriculture “sparked disputes over landownership, water use, and the extraction of resources” and has “driven exploitation and injustice, slavery and war.” Colonial powers forced Indigenous people to farm crops that benefited Europeans, “establishing cash-crop monoculture” for maximum profits. Soil depletion spurred a search for fertilizer, from bird droppings (“guano-mania” raged in 19th-century Europe) to ammonia-based chemicals. Machinery, pesticides, and governmental policies abetted industrialized farming: a “push to grow larger and focus on one crop.” The author decries the wanton creation of “engineered edible substances,” which he urges consumers to resist with their wallets and their votes. “Today,” he writes, “government subsidizes a harmful form of production that produces a harmful form of food and forces it into markets everywhere.” The food industry has no motivation to make major revisions; unlike some observers, Bittman is skeptical that “buying right” will lead to reform. “The system itself needs to be changed, its values and goals challenged and reimagined,” he writes. “We need legislation to support agriculture that stewards the land. We need food processing whose goal is to nourish. And we need an economy that supports people who want to grow and cook food for their communities. Those will come about when citizens organize and force government to do its job. A good diet will follow.” Underscoring the connection among food, human rights, climate change, and justice, the author forcefully urges both personal and societal change—e.g., the Green New Deal. “The choice,” he writes, “is to change the system or suffer catastrophe.”

An expert’s vigorous argument for systemic food reform.