LIFE ON THE MISSISSIPPI

An invigorating blend of history and journalism informs this journey down Old Man River.

Buck walks the walk, or perhaps rows the row: As with his previous book on the Oregon Trail, he follows the path of preceding generations in the hope of seeing something of what they saw. That’s not easy in the case of the Mississippi River, which, along with one of its principal tributaries, the Ohio, is “jointly managed by the U.S. Coast Guard and the Army Corps of Engineers exclusively for the benefit of commercial barge traffic.” With those massive strings of barges, some as many as 25 containers long, clogging the river, traversing it by means of an old-fashioned wooden flatboat seems an invitation to disaster. Yet that’s just what Buck did, building his own craft in the manner of the 19th-century pioneers who saw in the river system a means of knitting far-flung territories into a nation. Building the boat was a challenge, and the author “would shortly learn that the flatboat was indeed an ideal school for acquiring a knowledge of human nature.” Buck populates his invigorating narrative with a memorable cast of characters, some people who traveled with him, some people he met along the way. The author was courtly to all of them, save a loudmouth Trumper who “considered it absolutely vital to explain to me that the ‘’nited states of ’merica’ was being ruined by ‘librals and buree-cats.’ ” Buck’s adventures alternate between nearly being swamped by massive commercial vessels and dealing with more mundane disasters; as he noted to his first mate, “Clusterfuck is our new normal.” Besides being a willing and intrepid traveler, Buck is also an able interpreter of history, and it’s clear that he’s devoured a library of Mississippiana. It all makes for an entertaining journey in the manner of William Least Heat-Moon, John McPhee, and other traveler-explainers.

For armchair-travel aficionados and frontier-history buffs, it doesn’t get much better.