DELICIOUS

A history of the influence of food and flavor on human evolution.

Dunn, a professor of applied ecology, and Sanchez, a medical anthropologist, ponder the role of deliciousness in the choices our ancestors made about food. The answers may seem obvious, but the authors reveal a deeper, broader story than many readers may expect. They note that while anthropologists and historians often talk about the diets and foods available to ancient peoples, seldom discussed is what their favorite foods might have been, what flavors enticed them, and why. Since the scientific literature has comparatively little to say about gastronomy, the authors speculate on the evolution of deliciousness in light of evolution, ecology, agriculture, and history. They also amplify their findings with considerations of neurobiology, physics, chemistry, and psychology. Our hosts at this empirical dinner party envision a new future for the study of flavor, with seats for the curious of every stripe. On the bill of fare is deliciousness in all its manifestations—not simply taste, but the entire sensory experience of eating: taste, aroma, texture, color. They also serve up theories on how early culinary traditions may have played a key role in the development of certain tools designed to make foods available, engendering further evolutionary changes, as well as considerations on how flavor and aroma seduce other species. In their view, food choice has been almost as much about pleasure as survival, and our ancestors set the table. Among the most interesting chapters is one that examines why humans began to use spices, likely as much for our primitive understanding of preservation (their ability to kill food pathogens) as for the novel flavors they imparted. On a darker note, Dunn and Sanchez investigate how, abetted by climate change, we have eaten many species to extinction. Their diligent research is evident in the 50 pages of notes.

A persuasive, entertaining argument about how our avid pursuit of deliciousness helped shape our evolutionary path.