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AMERICAN FLANNEL

HOW A BAND OF ENTREPRENEURS ARE BRINGING THE ART AND BUSINESS OF MAKING CLOTHES BACK HOME

Guaranteed to be of interest to anyone who appreciates bespoke and well-made goods, as well as artisan pride.

A New York Times fashion reporter digs into the economics of manufacturing clothing—and why so much of it is trash.

“Clothing is a basic human need,” writes Kurutz of the decline of American clothing manufacturing. “What did it mean for a nation to lose the ability to make it on any scale?” Textiles had long ago moved to the South from New England to chase cheap labor; now they travel across oceans. Kurutz, the author of Like a Rolling Stone, surveys that economic history before settling on a few people determined to restore the “Made in America” label, such as an Alabama woman working to remake her hometown as the sock capital of America, as it once was before George W. Bush signed a law allowing “socks made from U.S.-spun yarn [to] be sent to Honduras or another low-cost country to have the toes sewn shut, then shipped back to America duty-free.” The flannel maker of the title chased after a shirt of the quality he’d worn as a teenager, nursing “a desire for timeless quality in a disposable culture.” Talk about a white whale: That excellent shirt had been offshored, and what came back was guaranteed to fall apart after a few washings, whether it was a big-box house brand or a boutique name. The flannel fan pressed on, founding a product line limited to a few classic items: flannel shirts, sweatshirts, and T-shirts. Labor costs added to the price tag—but so, too, did recovering lost knowledge, and then there was the problem of right-wingers seizing the “Made in the U.S.A.” slogan as political currency. Kurutz’s well-crafted story is one of makers defying the odds, as well as lessons in the many harms of throwaway culture.

Guaranteed to be of interest to anyone who appreciates bespoke and well-made goods, as well as artisan pride.

Pub Date: March 12, 2024

ISBN: 9780593329610

Page Count: 240

Publisher: Riverhead

Review Posted Online: Jan. 4, 2024

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Feb. 1, 2024

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ABUNDANCE

Cogent, well-timed ideas for meeting today’s biggest challenges.

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Helping liberals get out of their own way.

Klein, a New York Times columnist, and Thompson, an Atlantic staffer, lean to the left, but they aren’t interrogating the usual suspects. Aware that many conservatives have no interest in their opinions, the authors target their own side’s “pathologies.” Why do red states greenlight the kind of renewable energy projects that often languish in blue states? Why does liberal California have the nation’s most severe homelessness and housing affordability crises? One big reason: Liberal leadership has ensnared itself in a web of well-intentioned yet often onerous “goals, standards, and rules.” This “procedural kludge,” partially shaped by lawyers who pioneered a “democracy by lawsuit” strategy in the 1960s, threatens to stymie key breakthroughs. Consider the anti-pollution laws passed after World War II. In the decades since, homeowners’ groups in liberal locales have cited such statutes in lawsuits meant to stop new affordable housing. Today, these laws “block the clean energy projects” required to tackle climate change. Nuclear energy is “inarguably safer” than the fossil fuel variety, but because Washington doesn’t always “properly weigh risk,” it almost never builds new reactors. Meanwhile, technologies that may cure disease or slash the carbon footprint of cement production benefit from government support, but too often the grant process “rewards caution and punishes outsider thinking.” The authors call this style of governing “everything-bagel liberalism,” so named because of its many government mandates. Instead, they envision “a politics of abundance” that would remake travel, work, and health. This won’t happen without “changing the processes that make building and inventing so hard.” It’s time, then, to scrutinize everything from municipal zoning regulations to the paperwork requirements for scientists getting federal funding. The authors’ debut as a duo is very smart and eminently useful.

Cogent, well-timed ideas for meeting today’s biggest challenges.

Pub Date: March 18, 2025

ISBN: 9781668023488

Page Count: 320

Publisher: Avid Reader Press

Review Posted Online: Jan. 16, 2025

Kirkus Reviews Issue: Feb. 15, 2025

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WHO KNEW

MY STORY

Highly instructive for would-be tycoons, with plenty of entertaining interludes.

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Well-crafted memoir by the noted media mogul.

Diller’s home life as a youngster was anything but happy; as he writes early on, “The household I grew up in was perfectly dysfunctional.” His mother lived in her own world, his father was knee-deep in business deals, his brother was a heroin addict, and he tried to play by all the rules in order to allay “my fear of the consequences from my incipient homosexuality.” Somehow he fell into the orbit of show business figures like Lew Wasserman (“I was once arrested for joy-riding in Mrs. Wasserman’s Bentley”) and decided that Hollywood offered the right kind of escape. Starting in the proverbial mailroom, he worked his way up to be a junior talent agent, then scrambled up the ladder to become a high-up executive at ABC, head of Paramount and Fox, and an internet pioneer who invested in Match.com and took over a revitalized Ticketmaster. None of that ascent was easy, and Diller documents several key failures along the way, including boardroom betrayals (“What a monumental dope I’d been. They’d taken over the company—in a merger I’d created—with venality and duplicity”) and strategic missteps. It’s no news that the corporate world is rife with misbehavior, but the better part of Diller’s book is his dish on the players: He meets Jack Nicholson at the William Morris Agency, “wandering through the halls, looking for anyone who’d pay attention to him”; hangs out with Warren Beatty, ever on the make; mispronounces Barbra Streisand’s name (“her glare at me as she walked out would have fried a fish”); learns a remedy for prostatitis from Katharine Hepburn (“My father was an expert urological surgeon, and I know what I’m doing”); and much more in one of the better show-biz memoirs to appear in recent years.

Highly instructive for would-be tycoons, with plenty of entertaining interludes.

Pub Date: May 20, 2025

ISBN: 9780593317877

Page Count: 352

Publisher: Simon & Schuster

Review Posted Online: May 12, 2025

Kirkus Reviews Issue: June 15, 2025

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