THE BARTENDER'S CURE

A 24-year-old California girl on her way to Harvard Law stops off behind a bar in Brooklyn.

Straton’s debut is two books in one—a thoroughly researched and mostly charming compendium of information about bartending and recipes for cocktails and a rather lugubrious account of her narrator Samantha “Sam” Fisher’s gap year employment at a drinking establishment called Joe’s Apothecary. Sam is at a low point emotionally and financially as she heads in for her interview, a long shot since women are rarely seen behind a bar. Sure enough, the place is staffed by three men, all named Dan, one of whom she had a messy encounter with a while back, but they decide to give her a chance. This Columbia graduate is nothing if not a dedicated student, and if her boring love life and slowly revealed traumatic backstory aren't sufficient to shake together a compelling plot, she will certainly find out what goes in a Negroni and a sidecar, and how and why and where and when as well. Each chapter opens with a cocktail recipe and is stuffed with trivia and lore—the purpose of the Snaiquiri (a minidaquiri shared at the beginning of a bar shift), the possible origins of the word cocktail (ginger stuffed up a horse’s behind?), backstory on the original Trader Vic’s tiki bar (shut down due to tackiness by Donald Trump), and much more. Sometimes she goes further than strictly necessary—dictionary definition of mocktail, anyone?—but her tips on effective Instagram posts are worth bookmarking. This novel is a close cousin of Stephanie Danler’s bestselling Sweetbitter, but the characters don't have as much star power, and the will to educate is more dominant. Tics in the storytelling voice—endless clauses strung together with and, endless asides beginning with “Once upon a time”—become annoying in the absence of narrative momentum.

This illuminating paean to mixology is best read at your favorite bar or with ingredients nearby.