A TASTE OF SAGE

When Dominican chef Lumi Santana’s unconventional restaurant fails, she takes a job as sous chef at traditional French outpost DAX, owned by the acerbic Julien Dax.

Julien is presented as a Gordon Ramsay type who cuts an intimidating figure in the kitchen. But though Julien ejects a customer who deigns to ask for ketchup and fires a cook who ruins some expensive dried meat, Santos never fully captures either his bark or his bite. And although Lumi is a more fully realized character, she still suffers from lack of a strong plot to support her. Lumi repeatedly mentions how much she hates Julien, how little she enjoys her position at DAX, how every rude comment her boss makes brings her to the brink of quitting—but Santos writes the kitchen staff as friendly and Julien as sarcastic and nit-picky but affable. Most disappointing, the romance between Lumi and Julien is completely unearned. The two spend a minimal amount of time together before falling head over heels, so when both claim an intense and life-altering attraction, there is little evidence to support it. Several underdeveloped and unnecessary side plots (a disgruntled chef, an obsessive secretary) take needed time away from cultivating a real romantic connection between the main characters. It’s clear that Santos is as proud of her Dominican heritage as she is passionate about food—when she shares the beauty of her culture (a thread of magical realism runs through the text in Lumi’s ability to taste emotions in food) and lushly describes Lumi’s culinary creations, the passages shine. But these brief moments are not enough to save the uneven writing and thin plot.

This dish sounds good on the menu but ultimately fails a taste test.