EYELINER

An exploration of the mystery, beauty, and potency of eyeliner.

At first blush, a book about eyeliner would seem to be so esoteric that it would appeal only to fashion addicts, but it turns out to be an absorbing piece of work. Lebanese-British journalist Hankir, editor of Our Women on the Ground, mixes her personal experiences with the social history of eyeliner. Eyeliner reached its first peak in ancient Egypt, with paintings of the era showing women and men adorned with eyeliner. Hankir has always been mesmerized by the famous bust of Nefertiti, which shows eyeliner in all its glory, with “wings” flowing from the sides of the eyes. The bust had a critical impact on the author, helping her to overcome her adolescent insecurities and accept living between two cultures. Nefertiti leads her to an examination of eyeliner in the Middle East, India, and Japan, and she digs through the complex cultural and historical layers. Interestingly, in Islamic countries, religious authorities frown on most cosmetics but accept eyeliner, perhaps because Muhammad used a form of it “to protect his eyes.” In the West, eyeliner is not usually used by men, although there have been plenty of exceptions in the creative industries and within the queer community. There is no shortage of types and styles for women, pushed along by celebrities and social media. The latest trend is to wear only eyeliner, rejecting other makeup and accepting skin blemishes. Hankir also examines eyeliner in the context of women of color reclaiming their heritage, and she asks readers to appreciate that beauty has many roots. “To wear eyeliner and to learn about its origins is to bring not only ourselves,” she concludes, “but also some of the world’s most fascinating cultures, into focus.”

Hankir provides an engaging, colorful study while relating her own cross-cultural story.